Reviewed by Jasmine Crittenden
The Spice Cellar’s Thursday night degustation is not just about food. It’s a comprehensive sensory experience: eclectic décor evocative of an underground bar more likely to be found in Berlin than Martin Place; jazz (both DJ-spun and live); warm, knowledgeable service; and five courses matched with five beverages, delivered at a invitingly languid pace. DJ Murat Killic and promoters Warren Faulkner and Rebecca Alder established the Spice Cellar back in 2011, bringing a sophisticated yet idiosyncratic aesthetic to the 58 Elizabeth Street basement that the Wine Banq used to call home. Larger-than-life street art Bansky-ifies the walls; leafy indoor plants curl around mirrors; commodious vintage chairs gather in twos and threes; a book shelf holds a collection of well-leafed second-hand titles; lamp shades in warm colours create an intimate feel.
The music programme consists mainly of the latest and greatest in contemporary electronica, but on Thursdays, jazz holds the fort. DJ Andy Webb begins proceedings at 7pm, with bassist Phil Stack (of Thirsty Merc fame) arriving at 10pm to host a jam session.
A Salerno Sunrise cocktail – a lovely burst of blood orange liqueur, brought to life with prosecco – kick starts the degustation. It’s the accompaniment to chorizo bruschetta – light, French style bread topped with Persian fetta, romesco sauce and onion relish. The rush of rich flavours is a suitable marriage to the cocktail and sets up an exciting beginning to the journey, though a little less relish might have enabled a finer balance.
Second up is a glass of Dr Polkington’s Miracle Cider – a refreshing contrast, by way of its dryness – delivered with the finest dish of the evening – zucchini, haloumi and almond fritters with lemon yoghurt. The zing of the latter sets off perfectly the irresistible moorishness of the former.
With the third course, the ‘spice’ factor enters the mix. A glass of Cervoles Colors Blanc (macabeo and chardonnay) from Lleida, Spain, accompanies scallops wrapped in prosciutto on a lemongrass sauce that ends with a delightfully surprising kick. With its melon and pear aromas, full palate and lingering finish, the wine is an invigorating match. However, the prosciutto has a tendency to overwhelm the scallops, which may have benefitted from a more delicate handling.
The spicy flavours continue in the fourth dish, this time with a nod to Thai influences. Braised beef short rib with lime and chilli nahm jim dressing and sides of roasted vegetables are accompanied by another glass of Cervoles Colors, this time the Red (tempranillo, garnacha, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah). It’s a joyous combination – both hearty and interesting.
Course five rounds the degustation off with a cheese platter and a rum espresso martini. By now, the live jazz is in swing, with various local and travelling musicians lining up to play and, more often than not, surprise guest artists. The week before, James Morrison dropped down, and played to a packed out crowd.
The verdict? At just $55, the Spice Cellar’s Thursday night degustation is terrific value. It’s a relaxing yet stimulating journey that takes the diner on some exciting twists and turns, reflective of what good jazz is all about.
